Friends Of Feathers Bird Rescue And Sanctuary
Bird Rescue , Sanctuary, Vancouver Island BC Canada
Keeping A Bird:
 Keeping Your Bird Healthy by RebeccaMargison |
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I am not an avian veterinarian, nor a breeder. I have kept birds in my home since1988. Most of that time I was extremely ignorant of the information available regarding bird care. Over the last few years I have done extensive research into the needs of captive exotic birds. I do not claim to be an authority. This list is simply a product of my research, talking to other bird people, and my own experiences with my own parrots. I urge all parrot guardians to do their own research on parrot care. You are ultimately responsible for your birds!
**Know your bird! Know his daily habits-- eating (how much and how often), sleeping, vocalizations, molting schedule, general disposition, dropping frequency and appearance. Newspaper or paper towels are a preferable cage lining compared to corn cob-type bedding. Newspaper or cage paper liners are safe if ingested (though you should still monitor to be sure you bird doesn't ingest anything other than food since it can result in an impaction which can kill your bird) and you can easily monitor your bird's droppings. Any subtle change in your birds' daily habits should cause concern. Don't feel silly about taking your bird to the vet because she is singing less, eating less, sleeping more, etc.
**Weigh your bird regularly! A gram scale is an invaluable tool for keeping track of your bird's health. Because birds instinctively hide illness, a drop in weight can be your early warning sign that something is wrong. Young birds (a year or less) should be weighed daily. Baby birds will generally lose a significant amount of weight in between weaning and fledging. This is normal. However, you should still check with the bird's vet to determine if the amount of loss is normal. For older birds (over a year or so), a 10% weight loss indicates a problem. For example, a 100 gram Cockatiel that loses 10 grams will usually be gravelly ill. Monitor your bird's weight so you can detect illness before any signs are shown.
**Don't allow your bird to wander around on the floor, even supervised. Birds are like toddlers-- they will put anything in their mouths. Even supervised, birds can ingest things from your carpet, get stepped on, chew on paint or power cords, or worse. Keep birds in large cages and aviaries, on playgyms and perches, or on your body. Be careful not to let birds chew on jewelry that could contain harmful metals like lead or zinc. Always be aware when you have a bird out -- always monitor doors/windows to prevent accidental escape.
**Feed a nutritious diet. Variety is key. This means providing a high-quality organic pelleted diet, such as Harrison's, Zupreem Natural (not organic, but all-natural), or Foundation Formula, for example, as about 1/3 of the total diet. I prefer to use pellets that do not contain any preservatives, artificial colors or flavors. There are many different opinions regarding pellets, and there is also very little scientific information available regarding their effect on health and longevity. Speak to your Avian Veterinarian before attempting to convert a bird to a different diet. The use of pellets in parrot diets is still controversial and not all parrot guardians agree that feeding pellets is healthy. Fresh foods should also be provided, especially vegetables. Live foods contain enzymes that aren't provided in pellets. Veggies high in Vitamin A and Calcium should always be offered. Avoid salt, sugar, and human foods that are unhealthy. Please refer to the writings of Dr. Alicia McWatters for more information on a proper diet. Know what foods are toxic to birds (avocado, chocolate, caffeine, etc). Seed is usually considered ok for about 1/3 or less of the diet, but it should never be a bird's total diet. Be careful with supplements. Always consult an Avian Veterinarian before using them-- it is generally not recommended to use supplements if the parrot is on a pelleted diet. The problem of over-supplementation is often as harmful as malnutrition. Remember; we don't even know what a perfect diet is for humans, let alone parrots. Pellet and seed manufacturers will most often declare their product is a healthy and nutritious diet. Talk to your vet, and make a point to educate yourself as to the nutritional needs of your particular species. Malnutrition is still the number one cause of disease and death in companion parrots. Feed them the best diet possible!
**Make sure your bird gets enough sleep. Most birds are equitorial, meaning that in their wild environment, they would be getting 12 hours of light and 12 hours of dark. In your home, they should still be getting 10-12 hours of sleep. Lack of sleep can cause behavior problems such as screaming and aggression. A small sleeping cage placed in an unoccupied room at night is an excellent way to make sure your bird gets the rest he needs.
** Provide for your bird's social and intellectual needs. Most people think that keeping a single bird who is bonded to people is the best way to keep birds. Did you know that in the wild, exotic birds are often with each other 24 hours a day? Can you provide this kind of social interaction for your bird? Probably not. For the well-being of your bird, consider keeping bonded pairs of birds. Do not allow them to breed; there are enough birds in need of loving homes already, we don't need more. Birds who have other birds around are usually happier and better adjusted to life in captivity than those who depend upon humans for their social needs. Be sure to also provide a variety of toys to keep your parrot occupied during the day.
**Keep your bird safe in your home. Wing clipping, once considered a "necessary evil" of keeping birds in homes, is now being re-evaluated. A bird should be allowed to fledge safely so that she develops confidence, balance, and muscle strength. Birds were designed for flight, but you must take necessary precautions when keeping a flighted bird in your home. A fully-flighted bird can be disaster waiting to happen. Ceiling fans, windows, mirrors, open doors, pots of boiling water, etc, are dangers that a fully-flighted bird can encounter. Many birds are lost when their caretaker absent-mindedly leaves her house with her bird still on her shoulder. If certain accomodations are made, birds do get many benefits from being flighted. Birds get beneficial exercise and mental stimulation from flight. If you choose to keep birds in your home, please consider building or purchasing a large aviary. Birds should not be allowed outdoors unless in a secure cage, aviary, carrier, or harness. The danger from hawks and other predatory birds is very real, and often the presence of a human will not stop them from attacking. When startled, nearly all birds can fly even when fully clipped. Microchipping is an excellent way to protect your bird should she become lost. It's relatively inexpensive, does not cause any damage to the bird, and sometimes it may be your only way to prove "ownership" of a bird should she end up in someone's home or a pet store. Most vets have the equipment to microchip.
**Get regular veterinary care from an Avian Vet. It is expensive, but that cost should be factored into the total cost of the bird plus all supplies when deciding to adopt a bird. If you cannot afford vet care, you cannot afford a bird. Try to take your bird to a Board-Certified Avian Vet. If there are none in your area, ask for references from the local bird club or other bird caretakers in your area (the internet is a great way to meet these folks!).
**Quarantine all new birds. Your new bird should be taken immediately to an Avian Vet, and he or she will tell you how long to quarantine. The average time is 30-90 days. Birds can carry illnesses that may not show up immediately on blood tests. Also, make sure your existing birds are healthy to avoid giving the new bird (baby birds are especially vulnerable to illness) any infections or diseases. Nearly all bird diseases are airborne. They can be carried from bird shops, aviaries, someone's home, back on your clothes, shoes, hands, etc, and passed onto your bird. Be sure to wash thoroughly, and change shoes and clothes after handling other birds before handling your own birds.
**Keep your bird warm. Most birds are fine as long as the temperature is constant and doesn't fluctuate too drastically. Remember that birds cannot put on another sweater or blanket if they get cold. Most birds are comfortable at temperatures humans are-- 70-80 degrees. Be sure your bird is warm enough at night. You can purchase a heat-emitter that can attach to your birds' cage. A heating pad draped over one side of the cage may also help, just be sure nothing can be chewed on from inside the cage. Sick birds will need more heat- your vet will tell you how warm to keep a sick bird. In general, birds kept in captivity do not need to be kept in near-tropical conditions. You won't need to keep your thermastat up all winter! Just keep your birds away from cold drafts from windows/air conditioners.
**Keep your bird's environment clean and safe. Inspect all toys, perches, playgyms, etc. regularly for loose parts, frays, sharp edges, etc. Food and water dishes should be cleaned at least once a day, as well as the cage grate and cage/aviary bars. Use a disinfectant such as Oxyfresh or Citricidal, since these are non-toxic and will kill bacteria and viruses when used properly. Paper should be used to line the botton of the cage/aviary, and this should be changed daily. Birds in the wild are not accustomed to exposure to their own droppings. Even if birds cannot ingest their old droppings, they can inhale dust from these droppings and suffer ill effects. Old food can also present problems and cause fungal infections and other illnesses. Make sure all toys are appropriate for your bird's size. Birds larger than a cockatiel should not be given toys with key-ring type or dog chain type attachments on them. Larger birds can get their beaks caught in these. Rope perches should be replaced frequently to prevent birds from injuring themselves on frays and loose strings. Any natural tree branches used should not have pesticides or insects on them. Be sure anything your bird has access to does not contain harmful metals like lead and zinc.
**Keep your birds out of the kitchen. Smoke, steam, strong odors, fumes from over-heated non-stick cookware, open pots of water or oil, hot burners, etc, can all injure or kill your bird.
**Don't expose your bird to toxic fumes. Don't smoke around your bird. Also, don't use candles (especially scented ones), incense, non-stick cookware (which, when heated to high temperatures, will emit fumes that can kill your bird very quickly), room fresheners, perfumes, or any other strong substance that can be inhaled by your bird. Birds have extremely delicate respiratory systems. Whatever a bird breathes is circulated through the bird's body. All birds are different and it's best not to gamble with your bird's health. Additionally, if you have powder-down birds like Greys or Cockatoos, you may need to install an air purifier with a HEPA filter. Other birds could develop respiratory infections from the dust and dander of these birds. Additionally, be sure all smokers wash their hands before handling birds. Compounds in cigarettes that are on smoker's hands can end up on birds feathers', causing itching and feather pulling. The same is true with sweat, dirt, food residue, etc.
** Bathe your bird! Daily or weekly showers are often relished by most parrots and will help to control dust and dander, as well as provide needed moisture to parrots who may be prone to feather picking. Heavy powder down species may need drenching (to the skin) baths daily. All birds have different preferences with bathing; some prefer spray bottles, others prefer a dish of water, others enjoy a good soaking in the shower with you. Experiment and don't give up until you find out what your bird enjoys.
**Educate yourself!! There is so much information available now that we have no excuse not to understand all of what our birds need. Be sure to check copyright dates on books and publications, as certain theories about parrots have changed throughout the years. I prefer publications no more than two years old. The internet is an excellent source of information, but take all advice with a grain of salt. Search out respected names and official sites. Birds kept singly are completely dependent upon you for their physical and emotional needs. You owe it to them to be as knowledgeable as possible regarding their care. Don't rely solely on your vet or on one bird book to tell you everything you need to know to keep your bird healthy. Become a researcher and educate yourself. Your bird will love you for it!
** Copyright © 2001 by Rebecca Margison ** | ||||||
Care Tips:
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Care Tips: Parrots are now one of the most popular pets in the United States. Along with that are the many different species available for purchase from breeders and pet stores. The difference, we believe, is that most of the parrots now kept as pets have been domestically bred as pets, and are only a few generations removed from their wild caught parents. Many of the breeder birds in use were caught in the wild and imported into the U.S. during the 1960's up until the early 1990's when it became illegal to import wild birds. This is where the problems started that make our organization, and others like it, necessary. Parrots are most often bought on impulse and without knowledge of their needs. In alot of cases, they will react to the lack of proper attention and care by their owners. Many of these birds have not known a stable home, they can have problems and may even be dangerous. They are Destined to being passed from one home to another, or even back to the pet shop, as each new owner faces reality that their new pet will never be the beautiful little bird they saw in the pet store. Many are known to bite, scream or even resort to self-mutilation or feather plucking in an effort to get attention from an the owner. Thus starts a problem that can be repeated again and again many times during the bird's life. Unlike dogs and cats and alot of other pets, whose life is span relatively short, a parrot should live from 20 to 100 + years depending on the breed and how the bird is cared for. Of course, in the effort to stop this vicious cycle, we founded Feathered Friends Forever to offer an alternative to people who needed to find a caring long or short term home for their bird, and to offer a permanent home for the birds deemed unsuitable for placement or adoption. | ||||||
| Cages | Diet | Diseases | First Aid | Health | Home Safety |
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The ideal home for a bird needs to be comfortable, secure, offers exercise, playtime, and a place to hide when necessary. Their home should also be light and airy, not dark and stuffy. If this is not provided, a bird can become physically ill or depressed from stress. The cage should be large enough that a bird can stretch out its wings without touching the sides, while on the perch, their heads should not touch the top, nor should their tail touch the sides or floor. The shape of the cage is also important. Birds should have a little room in their cage to fly from perch to perch. Birds fly straight across, not up and down. For this reason a cage that is wider is preferred to a cage that is tall and narrow. The spacing of the cage bars should not be so wide the bird can slip between them, or even get their head caught attempting to escape. Cages with bars running in a vertical direction (up and down) are best for Budgerigars. Horizontal bars (side to side) are best Canaries. It is also preferred that the roof of the cage have bars rather than be made of solid material. Birds love to be able to climb all around the inside of their cage, and this includes hanging upside-down. Some bird species will require a very strong cage, large birds, such as amazons, cockatoos, and macaws will easily destroy a wire Budgerigar cage or any other type of cage with plastic pieces. An all-metal (or even wrought iron) cage is a must for larger parrots because or their powerful beaks. Cage doors and the way they are fastened are also an important consideration. Doors that are kept shut with simple spring action may be appropriate for a Budgerigar or Finch, but will not be secure enough for a lovebird or parakeet. Larger birds such the African Gray or a Macaw will learn to open or break anything less than a strong chain and padlock or combination lock. Cages with doors that are hinged on the bottom are best. This is best because the open door can be used as a ramp in and out of the cage. This type of cage door will also serve as a “ landing perch” to help the bird find their cage after a quick flight around the room. The condition of the cage is critical, especially when dealing with used cages. Metal cages should be free of rust because a bird can ingest rust particles and cause damage to their crop. Used cages should also be completely cleaned and disinfected in case the previous ‘occupant’ had an infectious disease.
Toxic Foods Safe Foods:
Veggies - Serve EVERYDAY Greens - Serve EVERYDAY Beans/Legumes - Serve EVERYDAY COOKED Treats - Serve on occasion
The best way to prevent disease from affecting your birds is to always quarantine new birds that enter your household away from your present flock. A proper quarantine room is one that does not share the same air supply as the rooms where you current birds are. One should always wash their hands thoroughly and it is also a good idea to change clothes and shoes after being in the quarantine area before having contact with your other birds. It is the policy here at Feathered Friends to quarantine new birds coming in form Georgia for a minimum of 30 days out of state birds will be quarantined for a minimum of 90 days, they will be vet checked at 30,60 and 90 days. No new arrival birds will be adopted or socialized during that time. As a state licensed animal shelter a minimum 30 days is requested, here we go the extra 60 days on out of state birds to be safe from diseases here at the shelter. Annual vet checks are also very important, as many times a bird will not show any signs of illness until it is too late, and the chances of recovery are much higher if an illness is caught early. Keep your birds away from places you know they will have contact with other birds (pet stores, bird shows, the home of someone who has birds), and wash your hands and change clothes after being around places where other birds are present, before having contact with your bird. Proper vet care by a certified avian vet is crucial if your bird begins to display any of the symptoms mentioned below, or if they just don't seem right to you. Aspergillosis- a fungal disease known to attack the respiratory system, resulting in difficulty breathing. Candida- caused by yeast (Candida albicans). Symptoms may include cheese-like growths in the mouth and throat of the bird, regurgitation, loss of appetite or slow crop, however many adults show no signs at all. Birds are more susceptible when lacking in vitamin A. Giardia- a parasitic protozoan spread through contaminated food and water. Symptoms include diarrhea, weight loss, loss of appetite, depression and feather picking. Papillomas- a virus which causes benign tumors to erupt randomly on the birds body. Polyoma virus - also known as french moult. This fatal disease affects the ability to properly develop wings and tail feathers, and can be spread rather quickly through feather dust, droppings, fecal dust and contact with infected birds. Symptoms include weakness, diarrhea, regurgitation, paralyzation and enlarged abdomens, though adult birds may show no signs at all. No cure is presently known, although a controversial vaccine is available. Talk to your vet about this vaccine. Proventricular Dilation Syndrome- also known as macaw wasting disease. This fatal disease attacks the birds digestive system, thus affecting the ability to digest food. Symptoms include diarrhea, weight loss, regurgitation, and undigested food in the droppings. No cure is yet known. Psittacine Beak and Feather Disease Syndrome- PBFDS is a virus which causes a pinched or clubbed appearance to the feathers. Symptoms also include fracturing of the beak, and mouth ulcers. This disease is highly contagious, and is spread through contact with infected birds, mostly affecting young birds under 3 years of age. There is no known cure for this fatal disease. Psittacosis- also known as chlamydiosis or parrot fever. Infected birds may exhibit nasal discharge, weight loss, depression, loss of appetite, sudden death and lime-green droppings. Many older birds will not show any symptoms at all, or symptoms may not be noticeable for several years. This fatal disease is spread through contact with infected birds, and in rare cases has been known to be transmittable to humans (humans may suffer flu-like symptoms and should seek treatment from their doctor). This disease is treatable in most cases, with tetracycline-laces pellets.
One of the most important items a responsible bird owner should have is a special First Aid Kit just for your bird. Having a well stocked avian First Aid kit handy can prepare you to handle minor emergencies yourself or enable you to stabilize your bird's condition while getting your bird to your avian veterinarian. A sturdy, medium sized, plastic or metal tool or tackle box makes an ideal Avian First Aid Kit. Decide before hand where you wish to keep this kit. Any easily remembered place.... kitchen, bathroom or the bird room itself are good locations. Write your regular avian veterinarian's name, address and telephone number taped in the lid of the First Aid Kit, along with at least one 24 hour emergency hospital, clinic or doctor's name and number. Also keep a copy of your bird's medical records; particularly any chronic diseases or recent injuries/illnesses the bird has been treated for in the kit. Basic First Aid Kit
Towel - for wrapping and securing your bird Scissors - for cutting tape, bandages...and strings which can wrap on birds toes Quick-stop and/or Styptic Pencil (silver nitrate stick) - to stop bleeding from broken blood feathers or cuts. Avian blood has very few clotting agents in comparison to human/ mammal blood. A bird can literally bleed to death from a broken blood feather Hemostats and tweezers - for removing broken blood feathers, and/or splinters Pliers, needle nose - for pulling blood feathers or unbending chains and quick links which birds are known to injure themselves with Wire cutters - once again, birds are known to wrap themselves in chain and/or wire Gauze pads - for covering wounds, burns Cotton balls - for cleansing Q-tips - for cleaning out small wounds, get stuff out of a bird's mouth or throat Vet wrap (cut into strips and rolled) - for wrapping broken bones, wings, or binding gauze pads to wounds Microspore tape (paper surgical tape) - for holding gauze in place Penlight or small flashlight (A head-mounted light is even better) Magnifying glasses or "jewelers loop" - especially necessary for those of us at "that certain age".... but since birds are so small and delicate, a pair of magnifying glasses can come in handy for anyone trying to do detail work Sterile water - for flushing wounds or mixing with food Pedialyte (or generic equivalent)- for rehydrating a dehydrated bird. Can be mixed with food. Pedialyte contains sugars and electrolytes, which avians quickly lose when dehydrated or sick. Must be discarded within 24 hours of opening since it is a wonderful media for bacteria to grow in. An alternate to Pedialite such as Gastrolyte, Graptolite powders can be used. These should be mixed with sterile water. Both are available through veterinarians. Pedialite, however, is readily available at any grocery store in the baby food section. Hand feeding formula, jars of human baby food such as veggies, cereals or squash. Often sick or injured birds will be too weak to eat on their own for a few days. During this period of time we may find ourselves having to spoon or syringe feed the bird to help keep their strength up. Feeding syringes, spoon with bent up sides to facilitate feeding (for above) Pellets/seeds - If your bird needs to stay at the hospital, they may not have the type/kind of food your bird is accustomed to. It is a good idea to have several baggies of fresh seed and/or pellets available to take with you. Betadyne or hibitane (chlorhexidine) - as non-irritating disinfectant. Avoid hydrogen peroxide, which is caustic to skin Aloe Vera - for very minor burns. Many creams and lotions made for humans are toxic to birds, so make sure that you get 100% pure Aloe Vera Additional Supplies: For those who are more experienced you may want to add: Popsicle sticks - for immobilizing broken legs Ophthalmic ointment - for scratched eyes, minor conjunctivitis Suturing materials (surgical needles and thread) Gel foam - stops bleeding from flesh wounds. Available from your veterinarian Tegaderm dressing - helps healing for burns and certain open wounds. Encourages granulation (healing/scabbing) Lactated Ringer's solution - used for IV rehydrating of dehydrated avians and flushing wounds Syringes - for inject able medications and irrigation of wounds Danger Signals and Emergencies There are many problems, which you should be prepared for. We do not intend to list them all. Any time a bird has any of the following symptoms: stops eating, sits fluffed on the bottom of his cage, is bleeding from mouth or vent, has uncontrollable bleeding, has runny eyes, can't breathe, sneezes with discharge, has diarrhea, has constipation (straining to defecate), has loss of balance, depression, lethargy.... do not wait! Take your bird to the veterinarian! Birds do not have much clotting agent in their blood. A broken blood feather, or a minor cut can be life threatening. The blood feather must be removed, or bleeding stopped by use of Quik-stop or a styptic pencil. If bleeding does not stop, apply pressure and rush the bird to the veterinarian. Books
For the more experienced bird owner, a copy of Avian Medicine; Principles and Applications by Ritchie, Harrison and Harrison, (1995), Wingers Publishing Inc., which is considered the standard of avian veterinary care, is a "must" for the aviculturist's library. Traveling and Carrying Your Bird
A safe, traveling cage or carrier is also necessary. Covering the carrier minimizes stress on the bird as well as keeping the bird out of drafts. Brooder
Antibiotics There are antibiotics available over the counter at pet stores. Do not use them. The most common antibiotic available "over the counter" is tetracycline which is of value in very few, and only very specific, avian illnesses. Tetracycline can cause severe fungal infection if not used with systemic anti-fungal drugs and should be avoided unless under veterinary care! In closing...
Birds are very good at hiding an illness and sometimes it's too late to save the bird by the time the symptoms show. The symptoms may be a slight clicking noise, loose droppings, or a fluffed-up appearance. As insignificant as these symptoms appear, they may indicate a serious problem with the bird. Here are some common red flags that may indicate the a bird is ill: CHANGE IN APPETITE If a bird stops eating, it should be force-fed and kept warm until a veterinarian can be seen. CHANGE IN DROPPINGS Normal droppings of a seed-eating bird consist of a black or dark green firmer part, and a softer, white part. The droppings of soft-billed birds such as Mynahs and Lories are normally looser. The bird should have between 25 and 50 eliminations per day. Illness can cause the droppings to become loose or change color. The number of droppings also decreases. This is why it is important to count the number of droppings daily when cleaning the cage. Fewer droppings can be the first indication of illness because it indicates the bird is not eating well. Loose droppings are a fairly common occurrence in birds. It is a common mistake for a bird owner to see a loose dropping and assume that a bird has diarrhea. If the feces are normally formed within the watery dropping, there is just a lot of water in the urine. If the feces are very runny and lacking in any form or shape, then the bird probably has diarrhea. Here are some cause of both simple loose droppings and diarrhea: EXPOSURE TO BACTERIA: DIETARY CHANGES: CHEMICALS: STRESS:
Household Dangers Safe Plants and Trees
Safe House and Outdoor Plants
Acacia Aloe
Apple Seeds | ||||||
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